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Ukraine 1990
November: 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26

Map

Thursday, November 22, 1990

ukrlug3.jpg (3173 bytes)I was awake before the other three in the compartment, and jumped up to use the toilet before it became crowded. I had tangerines, tea, and a vitamin for breakfast. I spent most of the morning looking out the window. Alexander and I took a walk at one of the long stops. We had a good lunch of soup and salad in the dining car. Afterwards, we lingered a long time over drinks, talking with his many friends, also going to the holistic health conference.ukrore2.jpg (3465 bytes)

A "blue beret" soldier returning from Germany presented me with his "quick reaction" sash. We arrived in Lugansk at dusk. It was a large city. We crammed eight people in a four person taxi, and took it across town to a bus stop, where we waited for two and a half hours for a bus to the village of Orechovka.

Svetlana was glad to see me again. I met their beaming children, Matve and Lusha (short for Angelina), for the first time. I was surprised to discover a real ecological lifestyle there. They had spent a month at the Findhorn community in Scotland, after I met them last year. We enjoyed a big vegetarian dinner, and seven of us slept comfortably on the living room floor.

Friday, November 23, 1990

I woke up to busy noises and children coming from the kitchen. I packed up my sleeping bag, dressed, and went out in the yard to piss. I brushed my teeth, rinsed my hands and face in the dirty creek, and went to the village spring with Alexander to carry water.

ukrlug1.jpg (3002 bytes)At 08:00, we had to run to catch the bus back into the city of Lugansk. We changed to another bus, which was jam-packed, for a total two and a half hour nose to nose ride standing up. We arrived at the Palace of Miner's, and registered for the "Immortality Symposium." We sat through several boring new age lectures, based mostly on themes related to the teachings of the Russian ascetic Porfiry Ivanov (1898-1983). We had a good, long cafeteria-style lunch in the Miner's Palace coffee shop. It consisted of a small plate of beef, rice, salad, yogurt, and cake. Afterwards, during the afternoon session, I fell asleep. We left in the mid-afternoon to make the long bus journey back to Orechovka. We tried to buy some things in a shop on the way, but couldn't without ration coupons. We were able to get a snack in the bus station canteen.

Back in Orechovka, we had a good vegetarian dinner of salad, potatoes, and other things. We went to sleep early, at 22:00, after interesting discussions about Ivanov.ukrore1.jpg (3203 bytes)

Ivanov was born in the village of Orechovka in 1898, and lived there his whole life. In fact, he lived in the very house where I was staying. In 1933, he had some sort of Gestalt experience at age 35 and began his experimenting on himself. He eventually developed a regime of cold baths twice daily, physical contact with the natural environment, and weekly fasting, in addition to general abstention and positive attitude. Ivanov's techniques and philosophy now have a large following throughout the Soviet Union. There are large annual gatherings of his followers in Orechovka.

Saturday, November 24, 1990

I slept late, before getting up for a light breakfast of porridge with the children. The rest were fasting. Alexander and I went to the village post office to pick up some packages he had mailed from Moscow. I had some carrot salad, bread with jam, and tea for lunch. The others went to the sauna for their weekly hot scrub. I relaxed, got caught up on my journal and radio, and finally got oriented on the map.

ukrore3.jpg (2150 bytes)Later, Alexander and I went to visit some of his friends and neighbors, who were also Ivanov followers, Maria, a singer, her friend Valentin, and her radiant mother, Nadia. We sang songs, and they told me of their teacher's vision of the second coming, there in that spot. Maria, a Ukrainian, said "the Russian language came from God, and one day the whole world will speak it." I had to tell her that Americans thought the same thing, about English. They thanked me for telling them. We parted as loving friends. And they presented me with my own photo of Ivanov.

I had a great dinner with the kids, of salad and vegetarian stew. I showed them my APPALACHIAN LIFE picture book and Cherokee postcards. They were very interested. (I wished I had brought photos, which would have been better.) I went to sleep at 22:30, after a thorough discussion of Rainbow... and after the puppy pee was cleaned off of the pad I was using, in the middle of the living room floor.

Sunday, November 25, 1990

We were woken up at dawn, with an alarm clock, and had breakfast of tea and pastry. We again took two buses into Lugansk, but this time the second one was an "express" bus. Once we arrived at the symposium, I had to use the toilet. I was having bowel movements now only every other day, due to the reduced food intake in the Soviet Union.

ukrlug2.jpg (3236 bytes)I prepared my speech on Rainbow. It went well, with Svetlana translating. I held on to her tightly the whole time, behind the monstrous Soviet dais. I liked having a translator, because the translation gave me plenty of time to review my outline. I got the heartiest applause yet for my bike ride. Afterwards, I made many contacts.

We had a fast-breaking feast in the cafeteria, of cakes, salad, yogurt, bread, and cabbage stew. We stopped by the marketplace, after we left, and I got some pomegranates and giant persimmons for the kids. Georgians are apparently resented throughout the Soviet Union for being good at business.

Between buses, we had coffee flavored water with cookies in the station canteen, and went to see a Soviet movie about the tragedy the Afghan war caused in one family. We had to leave before it finished, to catch the bus back to the village.

We had dinner of salad and the previous day's leftover stew, which was still good. Alexander, Svetlana, and I sat up late in deep conversation about their projects and plans. I also read a letter from Findhorn, mentioning Vladimir S. in Leningrad. Was this an amazing coincidence? It tuned me better into my problems. I gave my hosts four of the 111 Apache crystals before going to sleep.

Monday, November 26, 1990

We slept late, and had a late breakfast of tea and bread with syrup. We then slogged through the slime to visit the head of the local Communist Party. We met him half way, in a truck. He accompanied us back to Alexander and Svetlana's house for a parley. Alexander raved in the particularly Russian emphatic way.

Afterwards, Svetlana, Lusha, and I prepared to return to Moscow. Matve went halfway with us, and acted up quite a bit before we separated. We snacked on juice and cookies between buses. In Lugansk, we shared a taxi to the train station. We met a number of people who had been at the symposium who were also returning to Moscow. The line for tickets got a bit stressy. We ended up with hard seats in the cattle car. But as if by consolation, we had a good dinner in the station restaurant. We killed a lot of time there, talking and watching Lusha play. We got seats together on the train, after trading tickets with some others. We had tea and snacks before turning in.

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