Marcus L Endicott

Original Map Circa 1990 Krakow to Brest

Wednesday, September 12, 1990

I woke up to rain again, ate chocolate and a vitamin, listened to the BBC, and wrote 14 VPN postcards, though none to Nanny and Pop or Grandma! I mailed them outside the hotel, after expertly negotiating two floors of stairs with my fully loaded bike.

To save time, I crossed a dam under repair, and almost got away with it, but workers at the other end started playing with me. They wanted a "drink" before they would let me pass, but I finally convinced them I was pressed for time. It was up, down, and rain all the way to the border. The border was no problem. Both Czechoslovakia and Poland share the same booth for immigration and another for customs. On the Polish side, I exchanged 50 Austrian Shillings at what looked like a private exchange booth.

I stopped at a shop in the first village for cookies and juice. I spent half of what I changed. Prices in Poland were much higher than in Czechoslovakia, about the same as at home in America. By mistake, I bought syrup instead of juice. The syrup was drinkable when mixed with water in my water bottles.

The rain continued. I stopped at a Pewex dollar shop in Jablonka, and got two Snickers bars for a buck. Poland reminded me of home. But there was not much forest left here. I had difficulty finding the campground at Myslenice, due to poor marking; in fact, I saw no signs at all. I got a bungalow with hot water for 63,000 Zloty, about $6.50. The official rate of exchange was 9,500 Zloty for $1. I lost my Headgasket, a neoprene visor for my helmet, but realistically probably won't need it anymore. It is only the second thing I lost on this trip so far, in addition to Dad's clock-pen, shortly after arriving in Austria. Anyway, it saw me through the hot south. But still, the loss was somewhat saddening. For dinner, I ate a tough steak with heaps of fries, and salad, strangely enough, for the same price as syrup and cookies earlier. I listened to the BBC, before going to bed.

Thursday, September 13, 1990

I had chocolate and a vitamin for breakfast, listened to the Christian Science Monitor news, and printed my Polish contact list, before cycling into town to find a bank and exchange a traveler check. Afterwards, I came back, packed, paid for the room, and headed out on the highway.

There were big hills, some sun and some rain. I stopped under a bridge for a snack of chocolate and juice. On the way into Krakow through the industrial area, fighting traffic was a real challenge; but, when I reached magnificent Wavel castle on the lovely Vistula river, I knew it to be well and totally worth it!

I cycled into Rynek square, and went to the Almatur student travel office. They gave me a town map, and marked the student hotel on it. After walking my bike around the circuit of the beautiful square, I stopped to eat corn on the cob, before riding to the student hotel. I met another cyclist there, an Iranian-Jewish-New Yorker named Joshua. I got a private room for $10, and rolled my bike right into the lift, and my room, without carrying or unloading it.

I walked right into the shower with my cycling clothes still on, but forgot to take my moneybelt off first, and took a long, hot shower. After dressing, I went to Joshua's room to examine his excellent touring bike. He turned me on to some smoke, and only afterwards told me of just leaving a traveler in Warsaw, who had been rerouted from India on Kuwait Air, and was perhaps sick with typhus! We talked about Rainbow, and eventually discovered mutual friends! He met Eddy and Cathy at Christiania in Copenhagen, not long after I left them at Tinschi's in Vienna.

We went to the heart of the old town for dinner at the Staropolska, recommended in LET'S GO. I had a really good meal, of hamburger on a plate, fries, salad, beer, coffee, and apple fritters. Afterwards, I caught a glimpse of my old friend, Tomasz, who I stayed with last year, passing quickly by us in the crowded street, with a wild look in his eyes. So, I decided to look for him. We found Tomasz' place without difficulty. He had come back there, but ill with a cold. I had a great time, but Joshua got bored and left. We drank juice, and talked until late.

Friday, September 14, 1990

I had apple juice with a vitamin for an "eye-opener." I listened to Radio Australia, and wrote in my journal. I went to Joshua's room, gave him VPN and OF stickers. He did me a big favor by trading a great pair of rain pants made for sailing for my remaining Czechoslovak Krowns. I counted myself as really lucky to get them at all, much less cheap! He had gotten them as remainders at the Campmor show room.

We went to breakfast together, across the street to the modern Hotel Cracovia; where, I had spent the darkest part of a long, snowy winter night in the lobby, last December. I had hot chocolate, soft boiled eggs, cake, and cheese. Afterwards, I went to the nearby university chemistry club to Andrzej Z.

It took four hours to learn how to connect our computers and get my new Kirschbaum-Link software to perform. Kirschbaum-Link is a German language version of PC-Link. We could have copied the files quicker by hand. I got their whole domestic mailing list, not too big. They got all my Polish, American, Bulgarian, and Romanian addresses.

Later, we went to the Zen Center for a good vegetarian lunch. Afterwards, we went to check out the new age/health food store; where, I bought a loaf of whole wheat bread. We then stopped by a book shop to visit a leading anarchist, and friend of Bob in New York. He was a bit uptight, said that English was an imperialistic language and wanted to speak Esperanto. For dinner, I got 2 "zapiekankis," an ear of corn, four pieces of chocolate cake, and a liter of orange drink.

Saturday, September 15, 1990

I had juice with a vitamin, listened to Radio Israel, and wrote in my journal, before going to the Hotel Cracovia for breakfast. I had cocoa, eggs, yucky bacon, cheese, and cake. I exchanged a traveler check there. Back at the student hotel, I paid up my room for two more nights. I worked all morning with the GREEN BRIGADES mailing list.

Joshua knocked on my door about noon. We rode our bikes into the city for lunch, of fried fish, corn, doughnuts and coffee. I showed him the new age/health food store, and went in to chat. We enjoyed the folk festival in the main square for a while. Then, we rode completely around Wavel castle, and explored inside some. We even saw the dragon's lair and the fire-breathing statue.

In the evening, Joshua left for Prague by train. I met Ela, who I knew from Austria, and went by car to Roman's apartment. We talked intensively about Rainbow and computers until late. From there, I made contact with GreenNet in London, after more than fifty attempts at direct dialing, and played around for 35 minutes, which cost 200,000 Zloty, or $20-25. Afterwards, we had a good midnight dinner of open sandwiches, with cheese, egg, meat, peppers, onion, etc. Since Grzegorz was gone, I slept in his bed.

>>Topic 30 Polish Ecologists
>gn:mendicott reg.eeurope 8:53 pm Sep 15, 1990
>
>GREEN BRIGADES, no. 2, summer 1990
>
>Environmental Mailing List
>(revised and updated)
>
>TOWARZYSTWO ZWOLENNIKOW WEGETARIANIZMU
>(The Association of Vegetarianism Advocates)
>-Kozietulskiego 12
> 01-571 Warszawa
> tel: 218283
>-Stare Miasto 11/16 m.23
> 10-026 Olsztyn
>-Osrodek Zen (the Zen Center)
> Boguslawskiego 2/18a
> 31-048 Krakow
> tel: 218681
> [vegetarian restaurant]
>
>RUCH NA RZECZ PRAW ZWIERZAT
>(the Movement for Animal Rights)
>Pawel Przywara
>Podwislocze 24/65
>35-310 Rzeszow
>
>RUCH PROMOCJI WEGETARIANIZMU
>(the Vegetarianism Promotion Movement)
>Krzysztof Zolkiewski
>Tysiaclecia 80/141
>40-871 Katowice
>
>SPOLECZNY INSTYTUT EKOLOGICZNY
>(the Social Ecologial Institute)
>Jolanta Pawlak
>Rutkowskiego 24/1 Ip.
>00-021 Warszawa
>tel: 263650
>
>RUCH EKOLOGICZNY SW. FRANCISZKA Z ASYZU
>(the St. Francis Environmental Movement)
>-Kl. Franciszkanow
> pl. Wiosny Ludow 5
> 31-004 Krakow
>-Andrzej Laskowski
> XXX-lecia 41
> 38-200 Jaslo
> tel: 33-06
>
>FRANCISZKANSKA WSPOLNOTA EKOLOGICZNA
>(the Franciscan Environmental Community)
>Kl. Reformatow
>Reformacka 4
>31-012 Krakow
>
>KRAJOWE TOWARZYSTWO PROPAGOWANIA ZDROWEJ ZYWNOSCI
>(the Association for Healthy Food Propagation)
>Kwiatkowskiego 8
>33-101 Tarnow
>
>HARCERSKI RUCH EKOLOGICZNY IM. SW. FRANCISZKA Z ASYZU
>(the St. Francis of Assisi Scouts' Environmental Movement)
>-Grzegorz Piatek
> Zeromskiego 14
> 19-400 Olecko
>-Dariusz Morsztyn
> Wojska Polskiego 11
> 11-525 Orzysz
>
>FEDERACJA ZIELONYCH
>(the Green Federation)
>-Ewa Kaczynska
> Matejki 5/9
> 45-055 Opole
> tel: 38-619
>-Agnieszka Ellas
> Mielecka 11/33
> 53-401 Wroclaw
>-Slawek Augustyniak
> Podmiejska 27/76
> Kalisz
> tel: 74343
>-Tomek Terlecki
> Pawlikowskiego 14/6
> 31-127 Krakow
>-Piotr Rymarowicz
> Pl. Gwardii Lud. 5
> 32-600 Oswiecim
>-Roman Mis Mroz
> Koscielna 3
> 28-251 Kurozweki
>-Jacek Warda
> Szenwalda 27/20
> 20-089 Lublin
> tel: 777530
>-Klaudiusz Glabik
> ZMW 4/3
> 40-119 Katowice
>-Grzegorz K. Wojslaw
> Engelsa 25/15
> Tychy
> tel: 275830
>
>OFICYNA WYDAWNICZA KRAKOWSKIEJ GRUPY FEDERACJI ZIELONYCH
>(Cracovian Green Federation Publishing House)
>Tomasz Terlecki
>Pawlikowskiego 14/6
>31-127 Krakow
>tel: 222011 ext.283 (P. Dabrowski)
>
>RUCH "WOLNOSC I POKOJ"
>(the "Freedom and Peace" Movement)
>['contd' ?]
>Maciej Tuora
>Chalbinskiego 25
>34-500 Zakopane
>
>EKOLAND - STOWARZYSZENIE PRODUCENTOW ZYWNOSCI METODAMI EKOLOGICZNYMI
>(the Association of Ecological Food Producers)
>Przysiek K. Torunia
>87-131 Rozgarty
>tel: 272-55
> 262-20
> 819-82
>
>POLSKIE STOWARZYSZENIE PRZYJACIOL INDIAN
>(the Polish American Indian Friends' Association)
>skr. 4
>15-472 Bialystok 21
>
>PRACOWNIA NA RZECZ WSZYSTKICH ISTOT
>(the Workshop for All Beings)
>PRACOWNIA ARCHITEKTURY ZYWEJ
>(the Studio for Living Architecture)
>-Jacek Bozek
> Nad Wilkowka 24
> 43-365 Wilkowice
>-Janusz Korbel
> Magi 21/3
> 43-300 Bielsko
>-Jacek Majewski
> Osrodek Zen (the Zen Center)
> Filmowa 32
> 04-935 Warszawa
>-Elzbieta Prejzner
> Urle 5/23
> 02-943 Warszawa
> tel: 6425774
>-Marek Styczynski
> Teatr Dzwieku "Atman"
> (the Living Music Theater "Atman")
> Piastowska 5
> 35-300 Nowy Sacz
> tel: 22816
>-Janusz Tyrlik
> Derkacza 6/43
> 44-114 Gliwice
>-Jurek Oszelda
> Tysiaclecia 8/6
> 43-400 Cieszyn
> tel: 20135
>
>EYFA - Poland
>Mariusz Lysik
>Jagiellonskie 17/2
>31-833 Krakow
>tel: 484105
>
>FUNDACJA WSPIERANIA INICJATYW EKOLOGICZNYCH "EYFA-POLAND"
>(the Ecological Initiatives Foundation)
>Tomasz Terecki
>Pawlikowskiego 14/6
>31-127 Krakow
>tel: 117693 (Tadeusz Figwer)
>
>SLASKI RUCH EKOLOGICZNY
>(the Silesian Ecological Movement)
>Jagiellonska 17
>Katowice
>tel: 512120
>tlx: 0312619 SOLID PL
>
>STOWARZYSZENIE NATURYSTOW POLSKICH
>(the Polish Naturists Association)
>1-go Maja 87
>90-775 Lodz
>tel: 338162

Sunday, September 16, 1990

I woke up early, and worked almost until noon with my computer, on the previous night's capture from GreenNet and the GREEN BRIGADES mailing list. We had good oatmeal for brunch, and hung around talking politics and philosophy, and swapping addresses until dinner time.

Roman and I took a tram into the city. I went to the Staropolska restaurant for turkey, mushrooms, fries, conserved salad, and beer. I walked back to the student hotel in the rain. I drank juice, and went by the in-house cafe for some sesame bars. I listened to the BBC, and read most of the clippings from Dad that Hamlin had brought, and went to bed early.

Monday, September 17, 1990

I had cherry juice with a vitamin, listened to the BBC, wrote in my journal, and showered, before going to get breakfast at the Cracovia. I had cocoa, scrambled eggs, cake and cheese. I exchanged another traveler check there. Back at the student hotel, I paid for my room for two more nights.

I took a tram to the city center. I was forced to wait for two hours, standing in front of the Soviet Consulate. Three friars came out while I was there. Finally, I was allowed in by their smug, fat, gorillas. I saw the secretary, who would not give me his name. He said that there was no invitation waiting there for me, and that they had no telex or fax machines. He did recall me telephoning from Bratislava. He gave me a card, and telephone numbers for their Embassy in Warsaw. I went to the main post office nearby, and phoned Warsaw. The Soviet Embassy said that I must call their consular section, which by that time was apparently closed for the day.

Feeling ill, I stalked off. I got two zapiekankis for lunch, and felt ashamed for arguing over being short changed 500 Zloty, about 5 cents US. I also got an ear of corn and 5 jelly doughnuts, without holes like "Berliners." I gave the next beggar I saw 1000 Zloty to salve my conscience. I had six 24 hour visa photos taken for 15,000 Zloty, or $1.50.

I tried to locate Andrzej U. of BIT, Bank Informacji Trampingowej, the Polish globetrotter's club. I went to the Polish Tourism Union - PTTK, without luck. At the Almatur student travel office I was told he had finished his doctorate in radiology and moved to Gdansk to practice.

I took a pair of my pants to a 24 hour cleaners, which cost about $1. I bought toilet paper and big manila envelopes. I took some juice over to visit Tomasz, who was busy. I just stayed for a drink. We agreed to meet again in the evening. I bought tram tickets at a kiosk, and went back to my room. I relaxed, listened to the BBC, snacked on whole wheat bread with "Hazella" chocolate and peanut spread, and drank juice. I washed some shirts in the sink, and then read a World Bank publication Tomasz had loaned me.

When I went back to Tomasz', Andrzej Z. came, and the three of us went by bus to visit Roman and Grzegorz. We talked and reviewed the GreenNet capture in detail. I called Zygmunt, founder of the Polish Party of Greens (Polska Partia Zielonych), and agreed to meet him the next evening at the student Jazz club, and took one of the last busses back to the student hotel.

Tuesday, September 18, 1990

For breakfast, I had whole wheat bread with Hazella, juice and a vitamin. I listened to the BBC, wrote in my journal, and showered. I went to a nearby post office, bought long distance tokens, and called the Soviet Consulate in Warsaw. They said there was no invitation for me, gave me their telex number, which was different from the one I got in Prague, and said that their Krakow Consulate did have a telex machine. The secretary at the Krakow Consulate had hinted that the number given to me in Prague might be for the Novosti News Agency in Krakow.

I went to the main post office to phone Soviet Travels in Moscow. I was told by Tanya that Michael would be back in 30 minutes. I went for a walk around the market square, and bought toothpaste. I met an American bicyclist in the street, and gave him my Czechoslovak auto atlas. It took two hours to get another call through to Moscow. Michael was out again; and, I was again assured he would be "back in 30 minutes."

In a huff, I went to the nearby Zen Center for lunch. When I got there, they were not ready, because of having a party the night before; so, I helped them grate carrots. I met an interesting young vegetarian Esperanto enthusiast; but, we spoke in English. Andrzej Z. showed up too. I paid for lunch with $1. Afterwards, I picked up my visa photos, bought doughnuts in the rain, and went to get my pants from the cleaners. I was upset; because, they looked worse than when I had brought them in, suspiciously stained! Back at the student hotel, I rested for a few hours, snacking, listening to the BBC, and reading the rest of my clippings.

When I later went back to the main post office to phone Michael at his home in Moscow, the ugly woman on night shift laughed at me and refused to place the call, saying it would take 5 hours to get through. Through an interpreter, I made it clear that I had already called twice today. It took 30 minutes. Michael assured me that he had re-arranged everything correctly.

I then went to the student Jazz club to meet Zygmunt. I ran into the same American cyclist again, and an English cyclist I had also met before. I drank coffee and met Zygmunt at his throne-like "green info point." He seemed more interested in international contacts than in the domestic ecological movement. I also got to meet his sometime girlfriend, who seemed to feel the same way about him as everyone else. There was a good Polish Dixieland band, that I vaguely remembered from somewhere else, perhaps television. Zygmunt and I made plans to meet there the next day at one of his regular info sessions. I walked back to the student hotel through empty, but dry streets, thinking much of my ex-girlfriend Jacqui and Juro's Margareta. I was in bed by midnight.

Wednesday, September 19, 1990

I had orange juice, doughnuts, and a vitamin in my room for breakfast. I listened to the BBC, wrote in my journal, and showered. From a post office, I called the secretary of the Soviet Consulate, who said he had nothing for me and to call Warsaw. Using long distance 'B' tokens (rather than local 'A' tokens), I called Warsaw. After a wrong number, I was told they had nothing, but to call back after 14:00. I went to the market and bought apples and sesame bars. I also bought juice, before going back to my room to rest.

I went to the main square for lunch of two zapiekankis and a corn on the cob. I couldn't help but notice an awesome expedition vehicle with the name of "Dominik" there. Of course, I introduced myself to its owner, Dobieslaw, who I found out was a 70 year old Polish explorer. He invited me aboard, and we talked... or rather he talked, about his adventures, current program for children and foundation, under the auspices of the Ministry of Culture.

I went to the student club, drank tea and waited for Zygmunt. When he arrived, he was busy; so, I went to the post office to phone Warsaw again. They said there was nothing, and to deal only with Krakow. Zygmunt and I traded addresses, and talked about the Greenway meeting in Riga.

I went to the chemistry club at the university to help install their modem and connect with a local Fidonet node. They had another one of the modems on loan from the Netherlands, but couldn't yet use it, due primarily to the problem of their phone line being an extension. The Fidonet sysop did most of the work, and had a great talent with local conditions.

I had a fish dinner and beer with Rich, the same American cyclist I had met twice before, who was somehow associated with American Youth Hostels. We came back to my room, and talked a long time, before I went to bed.

Thursday, September 20, 1990

I popped a vitamin, listened to the BBC, and showered, before going to breakfast at the Cracovia with Rich. I had cacao, scrambled eggs, cake and cheese. I exchanged another traveler check. Afterwards, I took Rich to the Sony dollar shop to look for a shortwave radio.

I tried calling the Soviet Consulate in Krakow all morning. I finally got through only to discover that there was no progress. I tried more than two hours to get through to Moscow by phone from the main post office, without luck. While waiting, I read Zygmunt's paper, and an old GREENPEACE magazine article on Poland's ecological situation, mentioning him. I ate zapiekanki's and corn on the cob in the street for lunch.

Rich had introduced me to Ron, a Jewish-American photojournalist, who had the same computer I did; but, his was a T1000XE, with a harddisk. I met with Ron to discuss Soviet visas, with which he had a lot of experience. He was making the Trans-Siberian train trip for a book re-tracing his parents flight from Nazi Germany. He gave me lots of computer games.

We went together to an anarchist demonstration against religion in the schools. Apparently, religion in schools was increasing in the wake of communism. There were about a hundred people there. Afterwards, we went by the GREEN BRIGADES office. We had dinner at the Starpolska; I had meat, for $4. Ron and I talked a lot about publishing, and Rainbow. He was very cynical, having covered an aborted regional gathering in California two years before. Later, we went to the student disco for drinks. I met some west German greens there, just coming from Romania. There were many beautiful women dancing. From there, we went to the Jazz club back at the student hotel for more drinks, and saw the women we tried to pick-up earlier, who were still not interested.

Friday, September 21, 1990

For breakfast, I had apple juice, pastries, and a vitamin, in my room. I listened to the BBC, and wrote in my journal, before taking a tram to the Soviet Consulate. I got there by 09:30, but the line was slow, and took me an hour to get in. For the first time, the secretary took me seriously, asking for past and future details of my trip, and about my contacts in Moscow. He said that he would phone the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and for me to call back at 16:00. Elated, I went back to my room, thinking Ron had been right: persistence does overcome!

I snacked, and explored my new Shareware computer games. Later, I met Ron and Chris, an American logger-lawyer from Maine, in the cafe, and got some addresses from Ron. I went back to my room and played computer games, until time to call at 16:00. The secretary told me they had received my invitation, and that a visa would take only 15 minutes, on Monday.

I went to visit Tomasz in the rain. He told me that he had been ill since March, and now had physics exams. So, I went for a fish dinner. I checked out the English newsstand; everything was at least 3-4 days old.

Back at the student hotel, I bought 20 sesame bars for $7 at the cafe, in anticipation of the Soviet Union. I organized my stuff for the eminent departure, about which I still had some doubt. I worked on my bike some, mostly removing political stickers. I listened to the BBC, and prepared a packet to mail home.

Saturday, September 22, 1990

I had breakfast in bed, of plums and a vitamin. I listened to the BBC, and spent the morning reading the World Without War Council DATABASE. I had coffee and guava biscuits for brunch. When I returned, I found a note on my door from Ron, saying he hadn't left yet for Budapest; I left one on his door. I spent the whole afternoon typing on my computer. I called Roman, but he was busy. After getting copies of the rest of Ron's computer games, we went to dinner at the Wierzynek, one of the best restaurants in Poland, with Chris, the Maine logger-lawyer. I ate goose. The Wierzynek kindled many memories of the previous Fall. Afterwards, we went to a packed cabaret, before returning to our hotel. Chris gave me his cheap, but most welcome, plastic raincoat for my trip.

Sunday, September 23, 1990

I breakfasted again on plums, and a vitamin. I worked all morning on my computer. I got an excellent lunch with Ron, of beet soup and mushroom omelette. We talked publishing again, had a long walk back to our hotel, and got coffee, before saying goodbye. I worked on my computer until late, and snacked on juice and whole wheat bread for dinner. I couldn't get to sleep until much later, because of the caffeine I'd had earlier; so, I listened to the BBC.

Monday, September 24, 1990

For breakfast, I had cherry juice, plums, and a vitamin. I took a tram to the Soviet Consulate. I was issued what I was told was a 20 day bicycle tourism visa, in 20 minutes. I went to a bank, and got thirty ten dollar bills in cash for six traveler checks. I went to the U.S. Consulate, and registered. They were completely clue-less about travel to the Soviet Union.

I exchanged another traveler check, for Zloty, and paid for my room. I then went to the Zen Center for an excellent lunch. It was raining hard, when I went back to my room. I worked on my computer for an hour, before going to the GREEN BRIGADES office. Andrzej Z. let me copy some anti-viral software. Later, I went to visit Ela, Roman, and Grzegorz, and had a good vegie dinner. I worked on my computer, and when I finished, connected with GreenNet in London. There was no email waiting for me, and little news. 12 minutes cost less than 100,000 Zloty. I took a bus back to my hotel, and listened to the BBC.

>80
>
>326500 TXCAB PL
>1990 09 24 11:15 18306
>GA
>64411762+
>411762 MOSRE SU
>326500 TXCAB PL
>
>
>MICHAEL HARSHAN /SOVIET TRAVELS/:
>
>I HAVE RECIEVED S.U. VISA FOR BICYCLE TOURISM TODAY, VALID
>FROM 25 SEPTEMBER TO 15 OCTOBER, FOR MOSCOW, LENINGRAD, VILNIUS,
>RIGA, TALLINN, AND BREST. I WILL PROBABLY LEAVE KRAKOW TOMMORROW
>25 SEPTEMBER AND ARRIVE IN VILNIUS AFTER ABOUT TEN DAYS. I WILL
>TRY TO CONTACT YOU FROM VILNIUS, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I WILL
>NOT FORGET YOUR HELP. I HOPE THERE WILL BE NO PROBLEMS AT
>THE BORDER. I WILL SEE YOU IN MOSCOW.
> MARCUS L. ENDICOTT
>
>326500 TXCAB PL
>411762 MOSRE SU.....
>001.6 MIN

Tuesday, September 25, 1990

I went to the Cracovia for cacao, scrambled eggs, cheese and cake. I bought a bar of soap and two giant chocolate bars at the dollar shop there, before going back across the street to my room. I packed, trued my rear wheel, and lubed my chain.

I found the way out of Krakow through the industrial area of Nowa Huta well marked, though complicated. It took hours to clear the city limit; but, there were nice country roads and rolling hills the rest of the day. The sun was out full blast, for the first time since I've been in Poland, and stayed out until dinner time. I couldn't help thinking, "God loves me: first the visa, and on time, then sunshine!"

I stopped for a chocolate break about noon, and again for whole wheat bread and apple juice in mid-afternoon. Around dinner time, when the sun disappeared, I started looking for a place to camp. I checked out a hardwood forest; but, it was too wet, and full of people. I always figured that the more privacy I had, the safer I was. I checked out another, a pine forest, and ran into a grimy young man with two small dogs, hunting mushrooms. I said "good day" in Polish, and he of course started asking me some good natured questions, also in Polish.

I explained in a casual, relaxed manner that I was an American, headed from Krakow to Lublin, and wanted to camp here in the forest. He looked at me, smiled, then cocked his head in the direction he was going, and said "come on" in English. I immediately had a good vibe from him; he reminded me a little of my friend Kent. He explained that he did not live with his parents, but with his wife. And, they had no kids, but she was pregnant. He was a pipe-fitter by day, and a farmer by night. He took me to one of the most picture perfect little homesteads I've ever seen, for two young people. And, except for their small dairy set-up for 4-5 cows, they reminded me very much of some of my friends back home.

He shinned up his pear tree and shook it to knock down pears for me, which were delicious. He introduced me to his wife, and she invited me for lemon tea, hot chocolate made from fresh milk, cheese, bread and creamy fresh butter. Afterwards, we enjoyed more tea, orange liqueur, ice cream, bananas and oranges. We watched Bruce Lee in "Enter the Dragon" on a black and white TV, while the power kept fluctuating. I slept well in the bed they made for me in their guest room. I wasn't until later that I found out that their names were Mariola and Marek, and that I was sleeping in the bed of her mother, a member of the Polish parliament, the Sejm, representing the Farmer's Party, and at the time in Warsaw.

Wednesday, September 26, 1990

I dreamt that I was afraid that I had contacted poison ivy in the forest. I wrote in my journal. For breakfast, we had some kind of wurst, mushrooms from the forest, and lemon tea. Mariola made me eat an extra wurst, and take a glass jar of mushrooms with me, "back to America." They also gave me some pears and juice for the road. After photos all around, Marek walked me to the highway.

As luck would have it, I passed the only hotel I saw, along road 777 between Krakow and Sandomierz, 7 kilometers down the road in Potaniec. I made Sandomierz by noon, after a couple of snack stops at relatively pleasant roadside rest areas. It is a beautiful old town on a hill, but with a satellite dish on the side of the castle. I continued on to Zawichost; where, I was passed by a Polish bus with perhaps a dozen kayaks on top. Someone waved from the back of the bus, and I gave the thumb's up in return. I fantasized that I perhaps knew someone aboard the bus, from Project Raft's Nantahala '90.

After crossing the Vistula to Annopol, I stopped for a snack break from my stash of Austrian Traubenzucker tablets and Polish-Himalayan health food cookies. And again as luck would have it, I passed the only western style snack bar I saw between Krakow and Krasnik, with Polish hotdogs and American soft drinks at American prices, 2 kilometers further on. I pushed hard to Krasnik, though not as hard as I have before. I passed through the most massive turnip harvest I can imagine. I arrived at Krasnik just at sundown, and after asking a number of people, half of whom were completely drunk, found a nice hotel room at 150,000 Zloty, but actually paid $15 and 7,500 Zloty. After checking in, I took a warm bath. I had dinner at the hotel restaurant, of "kotlet" with mashed potatoes and peas, tongue and vegetable soup, "konserve" salad, bread, and beer. Afterwards, I fell right to sleep.

Thursday, September 27, 1990

I listened to the Voice of America for an hour. In the hotel restaurant, I had two bottles of carrot juice, and bread with butter and jam. I bought two liters of pineapple juice and two bars of Israeli halweh from the Pewex dollar shop there, for $3. I was packed and on the road by 10:00, after adjusting my derailleur.

The sun was shining when I set out, but it became windy and overcast for most of the day. I found it difficult to find a tree to piss behind. I stopped for halweh breaks, before and after the city of Lublin. The cops in Lublin had no idea how to find the road to where I wanted to go; I found the right way out of town on my own.

After asking questions in a field, I met an English speaking agricultural student, who sent me down a dirt road to Dabrowka. I met my friend from the previous year, Sloma, on his mountain bike; we laughed heartily at the sight of each other. Nicole was also glad to see me, and cancelled her French lesson with a lovely neighbor. Jonas, Daniel, and Alicia remembered my name and were glad to see me too. Jim, a young American German major and computer hacker, who had been at the Austrian Rainbow, was in residence with the neighbors, and would be teaching over the winter 180 km to the south in Rzeszow.

We had tea and cake. Jonas did homework. After hauling logs, Sloma came back for dinner. Afterwards, Sloma and I smoked. I had a real bladder problem and had difficulty sleeping.

Friday, September 28, 1990

I woke up to yet another beautiful day. I popped a vitamin, drank some juice, and had bread with butter and jam, with Alicia. Jonas and Daniel went to school. Sloma and Nicole went to the store in their car with a neighbor. I hung out and worked on my computer. My solar panels would not function right in the conditions here; so, I tried to plug into their new solar system, but shorted it out. Jim came over in the afternoon, and I gave him lots of addresses. We hung out, drank tea, snacked, and smoked, talking with Nicole.

At sunset, I took a long walk, and checked out the tipis still set up at the former Green Federation camp. In the evening, I watched the kids. Jonas became very aggressive, hitting Daniel, Alicia, and me. He ended up dumping the table over, and breaking glass. I was a bit depressed by this, and even considered it as some kind of omen, or at least a lesson. After Sloma and Nicole put the kids to bed, we sat around writing letters, eating, smoking, and talking until late. I was not particularly thrilled with my prospects for the immediate future, and compared it to the feeling I once had jumping out of a perfectly good airplane. I figured my bladder must be acting up from all the tea I've been drinking.

Saturday, September 29, 1990

I woke up to light rain, went to the outhouse, and packed up. I wrote in my journal, and split wood, before breakfast. We had tea, honey, bread, butter, cheese, and sauerkraut. I took some photos. The whole family accompanied me on their bikes to the paved road. It was a poignant farewell.

It was sunny with a tail wind for most of the day. I stopped twice for chocolate breaks. I rode through Miedzyrzec, and took a photo of my bike next the first mileage marker I saw for Moscow, 1158 km. I stopped at the Konar motel truckstop, which had a real "wildwest" frontier atmosphere. The young desk clerk spoke good German, and immediately befriended me by inviting me to have dinner with him, of tripe. He spent some time telling me what he knew about Brest, and the Soviet Union. He also made a reservation for me at the campground near the border. I drank beer, smoked, listened to the BBC, and went to bed.

Sunday, September 30, 1990

I listened to the BBC, wrote in my journal, and packed. I went for breakfast at 09:00, but due to a time change, I had to wait another hour. I had Pepsi, eggs, bread, butter and jam, with a German trucker who had gotten his license in the States. He regularly ran between Germany and the Soviet Union, and was hauling circus animals now. He was full of good, reassuring advice.

I started out in light rain, but had a nice, broad shoulder almost the whole day. At Biala, two touring bicyclists pulled up behind me, obviously checking my ride and gear out. I hailed them just as they began to pass me. One of them spoke German, and said they were members of the Brest touring club. After some prodding, they offered to host me, but wanted me to cross the border with them that day. I told them I needed to go to the post office first thing Monday morning. I went on to the campground. Sasha, a physical education teacher, stopped by there on his way home and agreed to meet me at the border the next day.

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